Wednesday…Glasgow

July 04, 2025

The Museum of Modern Art…the guy on the horse always has a selection of traffic cones on his head

Ok, ok….we’ve finally got to Glasgow.. also previously a city with a bad rap. We actually bypassed it in 1982…but I visited in 2012 and was surprised at how much I liked its northern gloom, and large buildings, wide streets-many pedestrianised-and the beautiful Kelvin Park and Kelvin Grove.

This time the tour had a different flavour as Freya very kindly offered to be my guide. We caught a train in from Glasgow and then the tube and emerged onto streets surrounded by the impressive Neogothic style uni buildings. It was graduation day so there were many beautiful young students and proud parents thronging the quadrangles (apparently everyone makes a point of walking on the grass as they’re not allowed on it before they graduate). And I was regaled with student stories and shown the best places for music and activities all student related.

Then my special choice-a visit to the Charles Rennie Mackintosh house. He and his wife, Margaret MacDonald were anrtists and designers in the early part of the 20th century. He also was a renowned artitechtect who blended elements of art nouveau, symbolism and Celtic design in his work. Although he and Margaret lived in the house, he also used it as a bit of a show home, inviting potential clients to visit with a view to procuring his services.

When he moved to England during the 1st World War, a friend purchased the house. It was just luck that someone recognised the significance of the contents and took them into storage when the house was sold again .The wonderful Hunterian Museum has completely reproduced the house in one wing so that it can be viewed as it was in his day. Bliss to wander around. Margaret was a textile artist/ designer in her own right and exhibited extensively as well as contributing to the house.

Then down the wide avenues of the park and past stately homes of yore on the strangely named and long Sauchiehall Street…” known for its historical significance, vibrant atmosphere and the Glasgow School of Art”. Somewhat faded grandeur led us back towards the city centre. We’d been looking forward to a special afternoon tea at the quirkily named The Butterfly and Pig, which promised vintage decor and elegant service. It was little disappointing to be seated in a dark corridor below the staircase and be waited on by fairly unenthusiastic staff. However, the scones and tea were good as well as the soup and bagels. Sadly, the city seemed so much more crowded now…but it was great to be shown some areas that I wouldn’t have noticed without Freya’s guidance. It was really kind of her to give up her day and good to get to know her better. She deposited me back on the train and back to Greenock.

That evening we drove out to a beach for a sunset walk and also a quick viewing of Jude and Hazel’s ex-restaurant inspired by their visit to NZ- the Kai Smokehouse. The present owners have changed it completely into a mishmash of style and colour- a real pity.

Home again for a wee whisky and a favourite tv programme that the Scotties introduced us to…Still Game.

Whew…another adventurous and action packed day.

The peaceful lochs and mountains on Thursday…