Of bells…and breakfast
So where was I? Ah yes, many church bells were ringing as we stepped out in happy expectation of a bun and coffee for breakfast, at 8.30 am. We were hoping to get going with our exploring before being defeated by the + 30 degree heat predicted for today.
It was a day of differing emotions…and the first of these was hanger, as we became more and more disheartened by the many silent cafes. Eventually we came upon the unpromising sounding Stadt Hotel, who were offering a breakfast buffet. (As I’ve mentioned before, I am a girl who is partial to a buffet!)
So I made sure to eat enough to keep me going for many hours ( and requested a 2 nd coffee) whilst G and E were relatively abstemious. So far, no surprise.
Much replenished, we headed for yet another magnificent church perched on top of a very high hill- the Mariahilf (literally translated as Mary Help). So a strong focus on the loving and healing powers of the Virgin Mary. We had the usual challenge of orientating ourselves- not an easy feat when the old town is built on a peninsula, with the Danube and Ilse river on one side of it, and the Inn on the other. We finally found the correct bridge and then headed off to find the covered passageway of 320 steps leading to the church.
I spoke of emotions…it was quite moving to enter the stairwell, where you were asked to be respectful of this as a holy place for many generations- to keep talking to a minimum and not perch on the window ledges (even if you’re huffing and puffing). Apparently the pilgrims to this site came up the stairs on their knees! There were numerous icons and pictures of Mary-acknowledgement of her answering prayers and providing support for people in need.
So there a strong spirituality as we climbed ever higher. Final hymns were being sung at the end of a service,so we were able to go in and sit quietly for a while. And then a young woman played her guitar and sang. So special to listen and spend time there, being grateful for all we have and thinking of friends who are struggling and could do with some of that healing help. Then all was busy-ness as the next group prepared for the baptism of a frilly baby girl, and we headed back down. We found a cafe next to the bridge and river and enjoyed yet another Radler.
Then back to the hotel for a rest until Geli advised of an old German custom which we couldn’t possibly ignore- coffee and cake on a Sunday afternoon. The cafe over the road had an amazing display of cakes to choose from- I had an amazingly rich and moist walnut cake with a hint of some alcohol in it, and a coating of marzipan! We swore we’d not eat again until tomorrow.
We walked to the confluence of the rivers at the point of the peninsula- the Danube appears to be green and it’s possible to see the change of colours as the glacial River Inn flows into it. And on the other side of the Danube, the almost black water of the Ilse flows into it.
Much bench sitting and people watching for the next hour. By this time we were nearly defeated by the heat. Only the thought of a glass of cold white wine made us stagger back into town. And we managed a small plate of sushi ( in Germany?) too. Now windows are again wide open to the fading sky and the noises of the plaza…good night!
WOW - how I have loved browsing through your posts this morning Rob as I sit in bed with a morning coffee being transported to other parts of the world that are such a feast of colour, light, architecture, shapes and of course the food!!! The steps to Mariahilf, what an experience and the pastel tall homes that reminded me of wooden blocks I had as a child. The yellow number with the hot pink flower boxes. The Van Morrison song “Sense of Wonder” springs to mind as one sees this multifarious creation through eyes of wonder and awe. The morning here is crisp and clear with a cold breeze but beautiful. Sending warmest hugs from Raglan.xx
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